OAXACA part 1 / Oaxaca City & Teotitlàn del Valle

August 6th, 2018 by Christel Pixi · No Comments · Uncategorized

It seems like I can only get my shit together and write, when I have something brilliant to share, or I’ve been out travelling and I wanna share it with the world in case you should feel like heading that way too.

I would say that all our money goes into grocery shopping and traveling, we travel as a family 1 month every March, and then we tend go FAR away. For those who don’t know we are based out of Copenhagen, so everywhere we go is usually cheaper and warmer than here.
Benny is used to Traveling by now, he turned 4 on the trip. We always bring him headphones, a kids sleeping bag and a kids neck support, then he can sleep on the floor all comfy on the night planes, and watch a lot of movies and have snacks, and days before departing we go buy a travelkit colouring book so he knows what’s up.

This year we chose Oaxaca in Mexico, we visited Mexico for the first time 2016, have a look at Tulum here and Isla Holbox here.
We wanted to visit all of Oaxaca the entire Region, but that’s pretty tuff with a 4 year old, when you only have 1 month, the reason why we wanted to go; we saw this episode of Vice Munchies and then we were hooked and we bought tickets right away.
We bought tickets Copenhagen-Oaxaca City, and the return tickets, were Mexico City-Copenhagen, so everything in between we figured out along the way.
We ended up flying from Huatulco Airport at the coast to Mexico city the same day as our departure from Mexico City and we ordered the tickets 1 week in advance, and we could even return the car at that little airport too. I use Momondo for all tickets except Aerotucan.

We wanted to do, see, eat as much as possible. We landed in Oaxaca city, a very little airport and we took the small shuttle busses out front which were 25pesos per person, and were super comfy. We had 5 days in Oaxaca city and it was absolutely perfect, we stayed at Hotel Santa Helena Plaza which I booked by Hotels.com. We even had 1 day out of the city visiting Teotitlàn Del Valle, a little town who’s occupants are Master Weavers and it was beautiful, and I bought 3 wool handwoven carpets, which took up an entire suitcase. OOPS! We booked a taxi driver for an entire day from our hotel, with our very little Spanish and google translate I fixed up something and our Taxi driver was the F’ BOMB!

Going from Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido. We left the City in a tiny airplane suited for 6 People, the Pilot greeted us at the airport and made handwritten Boarding Passes, and then we checked in. MAGICAL! The flight from Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido was 25 minutes, the drive is around 7-8 hours, and as the locals said, you have to have a good stomach, to do the drive, and I don’t, even though I really wanted to do the drive. We ended up flying, and it was app. …. and we flew with AeroTucán. I had only browsed for info on this matter before we left, and we decided what we wanted to do when we got to Oaxaca City. Even though we travel as a family with a kid, I don’t think you have to plan everything beforehand.
When we arrived at Puerto Escondido we had rented a little red car at Los Tres Reyes and then we headed for our first Airbnb rental in Playa Agua Blanca 40 minutes from the city, an Architectural pearl without electricity, so we had solar panel lamps at night, ’cause I’m telling you is was DARK! Dark like you couldn’t see your hand in front of you. And the Starry Sky was unbelievable beautiful and bright. We stayed here for 1 week, and explored the area, which had 1 road  handful of seafood restaurants, the best seafood there is, OYSTER HEAVEN! Oh and Lobsters and shrimp.
From there we moved to our last Airbnb rental, which turned out to be just down the road, served Breakfast too, this was ‘only’ a room, but it was front row to 18km of beach which only occupants were us, I have never experienced anything like this.
During this month in Oaxaca, we dived with Dolphins, Humpback whales, we helped rescue Sea turtle Hatchlings at Playa Escobilla, we ate some of the best food I have ever had in my life, we drove for miles in this rural part of Mexico with vultures always hangin’ in the sky waiting, with fresh Coconuts, Watermelon, Mango and Pineapples everywhere you looked, the kindness and hospitality of the people was overwhelming and not to mention the Local Mezcal and Coffee ! SUBLIME!

Well I could keep on blapping, but I have tons of pictures which say more than words, if you have any questions at all don’t hesitate to either comment or send me a mail at Cristalmilk@gmail.com.

LET’S BEGIN IN OAXACA CITY!
Arriving in Oaxaca city all pale and tired, required a trip to the pool


Our hotel was very simple and private

And Benny absolutely loved it, there was a local supermarket down the road

JOY, everyday we headed to the pool after exploring all day. The mornings were quite cool, but during the day it was hot.

The Oaxaca region is filled with all and newly renovated VW Beagles, the factory used to be in Mexico, so they are everywhere, and it’s definitely a charm

Jus outside our hotel, there was a family serving breakfast for the locals on their way to work, and it was absolutely amazing, so every monring we went here, for sugar coffee, and Zuchini flower quesadillas, everything handmade and from their own produce.


THIS….

The Mercado IV Centenario, this is a small local food market, it might look closed but go in, and go to the back and EAT! EAT ’till you burst, we came here all 5 days for a little snack. It was also in here that I had the best Churros of my life, like I didn’t not know THIS was the way Churros are supposed to taste.

And of course, no going to Oaxaca without having their traditional Cinnamon Hot Chocolate.


The Local Bakery

The Basketball Court for the local School

I could post TONS of pictures with coloured buildings, I would say this is my favourite part of Mexico, they don’t settle with colourless, they go all in. So inspiring.


We had a lot of Mole, and they all tasted different, this is a thing you must taste, Martin was super excited about it, but I guess you just have to get used to it.


We also had Oaxaca cheese everyday, it’s similar to Buffalo Mozarella, and was amazing in all the homemade white corn tortillas. What amazed me most, was that all we ate and drank (except the beer) was locally produced, the corn was from their own corn fields and the cheese from their own animals, nothing was imported and I absolutely loved this.

Flavours for the shaved Iced, Oh and they shaved the ice by hand, no machines here.

Church

CHEESE, CHEESE CHEESE

Fried Cheese Empanada

I need this cooled bakery bike!

Homemade Coconut Popsicles coming up

Bennys 4Th Birthday, he had an entire day at the market, picking out all sorts of things and a balloon.



One of the reasons why we made a stop in the city instead of going directly to the coastal area, was this place, Anthony Bourdain once visited and said, if you have to choose a place to eat in life for happiness this would be it. Mercado 20 de Noviembre, in the back you can smell the BBQ, and you can’t miss the smoke and the yelling, just GO. Walk down the isle, pick your meat on one side, and your sides on the other, find a seat, hold on to your number. And dinner IS SERVED! Perfectly grilled meats and sausages, avocado, salsa Roja and you name it.


Intestines and smoke


Benny ate all the chorizos, he LOVED IT!


And as a dessert ALWAYS have Churros

AND MY FAVOURITE : CHARIOCA, white fluffy bread with jam in the middle and powered sugar on top.

Fruits in the morning

And my favourite foodtruck, the Tamale Truck, and his friend next door the Mango Watermelon Truck. Here Benny and I are having Chicken Tamale with Salsa Verde and Pineapples and Sugar coffee.

I literally still dream of this meal

Papayas just of the tree

Pineapple juice, Horchata and Jamaica Juice – Horchata is a must if you’re in Mexico, I had it the first I was here and I have loved it ever since, but it has to be the good one, not the one from the store you mix wit water. This one was the REAL DEAL

SHOPPING, if you’re staring your trip in Oaxaca city like us, and not heading back, do ALL your shopping here, I had 70kg overweight, that give you an idea of how much I bought, and I didn’t even overspend, I bought so much ceramic and blankets. But all this I didn’t find any of it, when we went to Puerto Escondido, or at least not the same quantities. At the Mercado 20 de Noviembre, I spent 3 hours or more, there is everything from spices to Donald Trump Piñatas, fresh meat hanging next to the plastic embroidered bags and blankets and food courts.

This old lady made baskets, I bought 7 baskets, just because they were beautiful and she was so kind.

I told Benny about the Piñata and what they are for and he was thrilled, we still need to make one ourselves I promised him.


Chicarron

Isles and Isles of handmade blankets

And Bennys favourite the wooden toys.

 

One of the last days we spent outside the city at Teotitlàn Del Valle, we asked a taxi if he would drive us there, and he took us to one of the weavers that he knew personally. The master weaver opened his house, and he gave us the full tour. All the wool is from their own sheep, and all the dyeing is done naturally. Amazeballs, we paid around 40 dollars for an entire day with our Taxi driver, he was so awesome.


Wool thread

More wool and a dog
The coloured wool thread

The yellows are coloured with Marisco Flowers, the Blue is indigo and the red, is made from the Cochineal insect that live of the Nopal cactus, they mix the dried insect with lime juic and it turns blood red to orange, and with a little water it turns purple. This was so amazing to watch.

Indigo

This is the Cochineal dried insects on the right

Oh and Benny found a Piñata, so he was also entertained – I bought three big wool carpets for our bedroom and living room.


Then we took off to the coastal area:

For Oaxaca part 2 / Puerto Escondido & Playa Agua Blanca 

Tags:

0 responses so far ↓

  • Holla if you feel like it!

Leave a Comment